sewing

Butterick B6096

I made this a while ago but when I had daylight and time to take photos the weather decided to become rainy and windy. Nope, staying inside. I can’t do indoor photos. My attempts over the years have almost always been grainy pieces of shit. I’d rather wait than post those photos.

B6096_front.jpgI have mixed feelings about this dress. I really like the style and it is so fun to play around with the direction of stripes. The combination of pattern and fabric should be a win. But the armholes are a bit of a fail and I’m not entirely happy with the side seams. I’m not sure if this is due to my resizing the dress or if the pattern isn’t as good as the packet drawing would suggest.

Butterick decided not to list the finished garment size on the tissue, which meant that I had to take a stab in the dark selecting my size. I went with a 14. The resulting dress was too big and I think I was more of a 12. With the size adjustments I had to trim the edges of the fabric to even them out (my new dress form really came in handy. I’m so glad I purchased it!). This resulted in a low armscye, revealing my bra. Not happy! It also looked wonky around the princess seam and I had to take the seam in to make it look less stupid. I probably need to take it in slightly more but I’ve run out of thread and I’m sick of this dress. I can hide it underneath a cardigan. And it cost under $10 to make so whatever.B6096_sideB6096_back

 

 

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sewing

New Look 6447

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I have had this gorgeous bird fabric sitting in my stash for almost a year but had a lot of difficulty finding the right pattern for it. I thought I had things figured out and ready to go New Year’s eve but as I laid the pattern pieces on the fabric I realised that the dress actually runs on the bias. Not good for those birds! Fortunately, my mum gave me New Look 6447 for christmas and I thought it was a good match for the fabric.

The fabric is transparent so I tried underlining the bodice and could not make darts that that didn’t look shit (I also burnt a hole in the underling. Whoops!). Black iron interfacing solved that issue but I didn’t have enough and it took a while before I was able to get some more. I really wanted this finished before the warm weather ended but it just wasn’t to be.

I had read that some people had trouble understanding the instructions but I had no issue with it. Perhaps because the last dress I made had similar instructions. What I did struggle with was lining up the waistband, as I did construct the dress pieces differently to the instructions (in case I needed to adjust the side seams, which I did).

My unofficial (and vague) New Year’s resolution was to “do better” with my dressmaking. No more cutting corners. Layer seams that are meant to be layered etc. So far so good. The extra effort paid off with the neckline and I’m really pleased with it (the back is another story…). I even went to the effect of doing some herringbone and prick stitching. Hand-stitching is something that I’ve avoided until now but watching a couture class on Craftsy has inspired me (and intimidated me! It will be a long while before I dare to make a couture dress). I was home with a cold and it took me days to complete. Would I have been faster if I was well? Not sure on that one but I do think it was worth the effort so I will be doing more hand-stitching in the future.

NewLook6447_backThe hem of the under skirt was very uneven so I asked my boyfriend to help me level it against the other hem. At first he pinned the two skirts while I was wearing it and I took the dress off and cut the hem. It was still slightly out in places so I then asked my boyfriend to trim it while I was wearing it. Big mistake. It cut through the hem of my main fabric. Twice. Why did I trust him with scissors?!NewLook6447_hemThe very next day I went out and got myself a dress model. I still need to make adjustments to get the size right but so far I’m loving it. For the first time I can clearly see the back of my dress…and all the flaws. The back is ugly so I’m just going to pretend that I didn’t see it…NewLook6447_dressform.jpg

 

sewing

New Look 6125

 

This isn’t a fabric that I would choose for myself. It was a birthday present. The design is Yuendamu Bush Tomato by Aboriginal artist Audrey Napanangka.

I thought the print would look best as a shapeless dress, again not something I would normally choose but no other pattern felt right to me so I figured that I might as well try it and see what would happen. There wasn’t enough fabric for the dress so I had to add a band of different fabric across the bottom. It was very difficult to find something that suited. I also picked out a dark peach zip, which I think went very nicely with the fabric. I went to the effort of attaching it before deciding that actually, this dress doesn’t need a zip. So I unpicked it.

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Despite being marked as easy, I found the pattern instructions a little confusing and had to carefully re-read multiple times before I grasped it. I haven’t really lined dresses before so the process was foreign to me. But it seems to have worked out.

For the lining I chose some flimsy pink fabric that I had used for a Fail Skirt way back in my first year of sewing. It is awful material to work with and I had decided to never use it again. But I didn’t really want to buy some more lining and the colour went well with the fabric so I decided to try it and if it failed then I would get something better. Using gelatine to stabilise the fabric helped a lot but it was still horrible to work with.

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Despite not being something I would choose for myself, I actually like this dress.

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New Look 6345

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I had three family christmas parties in as many days so making this dress between events kept me from going crazy. I’ve been waiting for some grey tights to arrive before taking photos. My standard black tights just don’t cut it for this dress.

I’m not entirely happy with the bust. I’m just not busty enough for the pattern. I attempted my very first small bust adjustment with my very toile and my calculations came to only 0.5cm adjustment on each side. I was very skeptical about so small an adjustment but the toile looked good. Unfortunately the real thing did not work so well. I didn’t try for any further corrections to the garment as I had no fabric left in case I stuffed it up beyond repair. Regardless, this brief venture in toiles has convinced me to stop being lazy and make 2018 the Year of the Toile. Or perhaps the Year of Getting My Shit Together And Stop Taking Shortcuts.

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The invisible zip also gave me grief. I have sewn one successful invisible zip (during sewing class when I used the teacher’s invisible zipper foot) and have had a string of disasters since then. Generally I’ve avoided them but I really couldn’t with this dress. I’ve long suspected that the main issue was that I have a crap invisible zipper foot and this time I paid close attention and discovered that one side of the foot is fine. The other side doesn’t sew close to the zip, resulting in a very visible zip. Urg! I’ve drawn a little X on that side so I know to never use it again. Using the good side of the zipper foot I was able to sew an acceptable zip. It isn’t completely invisible and there is a slight bulge in the fabric that I can’t figure out but given my years of bad zips, I’m calling this a win. Now that I’ve figured out the problem with the foot I can focus on improving my invisible zip skills.

sewing

McCall’s M7160

My goal this summer is to make plenty of dresses. Long ago I didn’t wear skirts and dresses, partially due to low self-esteem but mainly because I have difficulty finding nice shoes that don’t make my feet bleed after only a few minutes of walking. Nowadays I have a few nice pairs of shoes but still a small dress collection and I’m getting sick of wearing the same ones over and over. Except my first dress is too heavy for a blazing Australian summer so I’m not being very logical with my sewing plans…

M7160_front

My boyfriend picked out the fabric from the reduced section. The fabric is meant to be for active wear but I’m as active as a potato on a couch. Anyway, he found the fabric and then patiently waited while I flipped through the pattern catalogs, finding the right right dress pattern for the fabric. I chose McCall’s M7160 and am very happy with it. It was very easy to sew and I love how the skirt drapes. There is meant to be elastic in the waistband but I omitted it as it doesn’t seem necessary. And of course I ran out of thread whilst sewing the final hem. :/ Why is it always the final hem?

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The fabric does have tiny holes in it so I underlined it with a light grey knit. I also made the pockets grey because I first thought it would be weird using holey fabric. Now I think the teal would have been fine but I kind of like that the pockets are little hidden contrasts. And they are really well concealed.

Next I will definitely make a summer dress and it will be finished before summer ends!

sewing

New Look 6035

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I didn’t actually plan on making a complete outfit, I just happened to pick out fabrics that kind of go together. (I should probably iron my clothes before taking photos of them. Except my iron is a piece a shit…)

There really isn’t much to say about the top and skirt. My past efforts using flimsy gauze have not worked well but I stumbled across the method of using gelatine to stabilise fabric from Lladybird. It worked really well! My cutting and sewing was much improved and I would really recommend the technique.

The jacket pattern doesn’t include lining, which just seems silly to me. A jacket should be lined. I decided to take what I had learned in a Craftsy class and try to add my own. I had some leftover teal lining from one of my earlier dresses (which is horribly sewn and does not get worn) but that meant that I didn’t have spare in case I stuffed up. In the end it was a great choice as I love the teal against the grey.

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The size I chose was a little too small so I decided to omit the button (also, I can’t be bothered). The sleeves were way too small and required a smaller seam allowance. I think even if I use this pattern again a size larger then I would still have to decrease the seam allowance of the sleeves.

I got very very confused with the collar. It took a lot of rereading and staring at the illustration to figure it out the under collar and I was really amazed with how well it turned out. But I could not figure out the upper collar and my attempts at attaching the upper and under was terrible. In the end I got around the problem by not sewing the corners and instead top stitching the collar. Meh, it worked…

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So while I do love this jacket, I would say that this is not a suitable pattern for a beginner.

sewing

Revisiting Patterns

I went a little mad with the new year sales and added lots of fabric to my stash. My to-sew list just keeps growing! A lot of fabrics I purchased with no clue what to do with but for two I had a clear idea of patterns in my collection that I wanted to use. (Another one I had a clear idea but alas, the fabric was not large enough).

First up is New Look 6286. I constantly wear the bird print top I made with this pattern I made two years ago.

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I absolutely adore this fabric. It is from Cloud9, which tends to have prints that really appeal to me (I even used Cloud9 for my first attempt at this pattern).

I made a few changes to the pattern. I omitted the ties, which I had done previously. I also lowered the front seam between the bodice and skirt (which also meant raising the hem to compensate). And I put a zip in at the back. I wasn’t happy with the back when I first used the pattern and there is also a large amount of gaping at the back that required dealing with. The zip also has the advantage of making it less noticeable that I didn’t match the patterns between the left and right sides very well (I’ve only attempted to match stripes before this top). I would have liked to use a red zip but couldn’t find a shade that matched the flowers.

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For many years I have had two pairs of fox print pjs. I love them to bits and have worn them to bits. I think part of that was due to my 2015 depressive episode, when I would constantly wear pj bottoms at home and would avoid leaving the home because that would require changing and having standards in appearance. Anyway…I have sewn up the worn patches as much as I can and am devastated to let my foxes go. I haven’t found any foxy pjs to replace them but I have found this cute fox fabric.

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This is the forth time I have used New Look 6705, though I only wear one of the the tops. The yoke did not work out so well this time. I probably shouldn’t have sewn it whilst grieving for my dog. I spent forever ironing the shit out of it (I wish I had a ham) but despite my efforts, the front of the shoulders don’t sit nicely. At least I can cover them with a cardigan. A few of my colleagues have been admiring the foxes so I’ll keep wearing it despite its flaws.


The fabric I had in mind for New Look 6899 wasn’t wide enough. Thankfully I had something in stash that I thought would also work. I’m happy with the fabric choice – I love the stripes with this cut and having them run in a different direction for the waistband. However, I’m not a fan of the pockets. They might be practical bit they don’t sit very well. I think it might be my fault, not the pattern.

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I had hoped to finish this before I started dog sitting but alas, I ran out of time. Daisy was not impressed by my sewing instead of patting her. I want to start more projects but she’s here for another week and I don’t think I can stand her disappointment in me.

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